2008 Grizzly 700 Specs
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have the complete procedure to adjust the valves on the 08 700 Grizzly?
Thanks
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Does anyone have the complete procedure to adjust the valves on the 08 700 Grizzly?
Thanks
Grizzly 700 (2007-2008) Valve Adjustment
There's not much to this so here we go. Be sure the engine is cold, meaning not at operating temperature. Sorry I didn't take pics. If you have questions, post in the forum and we'll be glad to help.
Tools Required
- screw drivers
- 4mm allen wrench, must be long (for removal of the hose clamp underneath airbox, I actually used a ratchet, an extension and a 4mm allen head socket)
- 8mm socket (for valve covers)
- 22mm socket (for crankshaft turning)
- 14mm allen wrench (for crankshaft access cover)
- feeler gauges
- 10mm socket or open end wrench.
Remove following parts:
- seat
- black plastic trim piece covering the airbox that houses the fuel fill cap
- left side panel
- left floorboard
- airbox
- black trim panel inside front, right fender
- fast idle plunger unit
- INTAKE valves tappet cover (on top of engine, beneath where the airbox was, held in with 4-8mm bolts)
- EXHAUST valves tappet cover (on top of engine facing forward, beneath where the airbox was, held in with 4-8mm bolts)
- camshaft sprocket cover on left side of engine
- spark plug
- crankshaft access plug (left cover, large allen bolt type head).
- timing mark plug (left case cover, above and to the right of the crankshaft plug)
First thing you gotta do is set the engine at top dead center. You use the holes on the left side cover to do this.
- Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise.
- When the piston is at the top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke, align the "I" mark on the magneto rotor with the stationary pointer on the magneto cover.
- Look at the camshaft. The "I" mark on the camshaft sprocket must be aligned with the stationary pointer on the cylinder head or the engine is at TDC on the intake side which isn't what you want. If this is the case, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (aligning the marks).
- Once you've got this all lined up, you just need to check each of the 4 valves. and adjust them per the specs below, according to the service manual. I found it easiest to go in the right side fender where you removed that black trim panel. some folks remove the entire left front fender and go that way. Your choice.
- Valve clearance (with enginecold)
Intake valve 0.09 ~ 0.13 mm (0.0035 ~ 0.0051 in)
Exhaust valve 0.16 ~ 0.20 mm (0.0063 ~ 0.0079 in)
Once you've checked and adjusted everything as necessary, re-assemble everything in the opposite order you removed it. Be sure to torque the valve cover to 10 Nm (1.0 m-kg, 7.2 ft-lb)
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Busterw @ April 15, 2008, 3:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Yes, I created this here.
Buster[/b]
What a great write up!!! Thanks ALOT! Do you think it is nessicary at just 20 hours? Was your out of spec. when you adjusted yours 'Busterw' ?
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You're welcome, and thanks. Just wish I had pics to go with it. Next time I pull my airbox off, I may shoot a pic just so it's clear as to where everything is. If you read the write-up carefully, it should be clear once you get going with it. Just remember, intake valves are on the top where air comes in, exhaust valves are on the front, where the exhaust goes out.
Aside from that, the write-up is pretty staright forward.
I'm not sure that 20 hours can say much of whether you should or not. Yammy recommends at 400 miles for the first time. The valves can loosen up or tighten up with mileage, either way means the bike isn't performing optimally.
I did mine at 450 miles and they were dead in the middle of the recommended specs. I've heard of a few people that had to do slight adjustments at low mileage but most found them to be OK that I've heard of.
That being said, I recommend you do it if you've got over 400 miles just for peace of mind.
Buster
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Trailblazer23 @ April 15, 2008, 6:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
What a great write up!!! Thanks ALOT! Do you think it is nessicary at just 20 hours? Was your out of spec. when you adjusted yours 'Busterw' ?[/b]
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Is the valve adjustment for the 07/ 450/ grizz the same procedure as this writeup. Probably the clearances are different but I can look them up
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Did mine at 100mi and found them to be a little bit out.:gcrules:
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Do you need to replace any gaskets when doing this? I was wondering about the covers for the valves mostly, but thought I would ask just in case? Seems to be fairly straight forward, but time consuming . Well worth the money saved to do it yourself, I am sure. Thanks for such great information and the right up was awesome and to the point! Good Job!!!
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So I am going to have this done for 200 bucks. My question is, if its not running rough or bad, why mess with it?
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Wow good or Wow bad? Another dealer said 300+ + parts. this one was 210 + parts. I decided not to do it since its running great and I didnt feel like spending 200 bux.
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I'm trying to figure out what parts are needed for checking and adjusting your valves.
wow being bad, it can be done under a hour depending how mechanically inclined someone is. I don't make no where near $200 a hour so its wow bad for me LOL
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I would highly recommend replacing the valve cover gaskets and the camshaft sprocket cover gasket as every one of mine leaked after the job was done and I had to wait a week for the dealer to get them.
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They get 200.00 to do it in my area also...just not from me...lol
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I could see 200 bucks for a 660...it's a chore to get to them! I didn't check mine utill 2400 miles...that's right two thousand four hundred miles and they were perfect and I mean perfect!! So....I guess i'am just one of the lucky ones..:rofl::rocker:
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I know this is a month or to old but. If you don't adjust you'r valves you can lose power or over heat/destroy. If they are to lose you can lose power and it may feel simmilar to valve float or non seating vlaves. To tight and you can overheat you engine or break a valve if they are really tight. Got a yz250f in my shop and the valve's hadn't been touched since new.... Bike wouldn't even start. They didn't want to spend much money so i re shimmed them and all was good. Started first or second kick.
SO basically, You better check you valves. If seen countless motors with destroyed heads form improperly adjusted valves.
Matt
ps. $200 sees steep!
Id charge $60 + parts. Around
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Grizzly 700 (2007-2008) Valve Adjustment
There's not much to this so here we go. Be sure the engine is cold, meaning not at operating temperature. Sorry I didn't take pics. If you have questions, post in the forum and we'll be glad to help.Tools Required
- screw drivers
- 4mm allen wrench, must be long (for removal of the hose clamp underneath airbox, I actually used a ratchet, an extension and a 4mm allen head socket)
- 8mm socket (for valve covers)
- 22mm socket (for crankshaft turning)
- 14mm allen wrench (for crankshaft access cover)
- feeler gauges
- 10mm socket or open end wrench.
Remove following parts:
- seat
- black plastic trim piece covering the airbox that houses the fuel fill cap
- left side panel
- left floorboard
- airbox
- black trim panel inside front, right fender
- fast idle plunger unit
- INTAKE valves tappet cover (on top of engine, beneath where the airbox was, held in with 4-8mm bolts)
- EXHAUST valves tappet cover (on top of engine facing forward, beneath where the airbox was, held in with 4-8mm bolts)
- camshaft sprocket cover on left side of engine
- spark plug
- crankshaft access plug (left cover, large allen bolt type head).
- timing mark plug (left case cover, above and to the right of the crankshaft plug)
First thing you gotta do is set the engine at top dead center. You use the holes on the left side cover to do this.
- Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise.
- When the piston is at the top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke, align the "I" mark on the magneto rotor with the stationary pointer on the magneto cover.
- Look at the camshaft. The "I" mark on the camshaft sprocket must be aligned with the stationary pointer on the cylinder head or the engine is at TDC on the intake side which isn't what you want. If this is the case, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (aligning the marks).
- Once you've got this all lined up, you just need to check each of the 4 valves. and adjust them per the specs below, according to the service manual. I found it easiest to go in the right side fender where you removed that black trim panel. some folks remove the entire left front fender and go that way. Your choice.
- Valve clearance (with enginecold)
Intake valve 0.09 ~ 0.13 mm (0.0035 ~ 0.0051 in)
Exhaust valve 0.16 ~ 0.20 mm (0.0063 ~ 0.0079 in)Once you've checked and adjusted everything as necessary, re-assemble everything in the opposite order you removed it. Be sure to torque the valve cover to 10 Nm (1.0 m-kg, 7.2 ft-lb)
Do the valve nuts have a torque
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Do the valve nuts have a torque
This is 11 years old.
But the torque is 10 ft/lbs (14 Nm)
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This is 11 years old.
But the torque is 10 ft/lbs (14 Nm)
Sitting here wondering how to get the nut torqued while holding the valve adjusting screw.
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Sitting here wondering how to get the nut torqued while holding the valve adjusting screw.
Torque with a crows foot while holding the adjustment screw
Source: https://www.grizzlycentral.com/threads/2008-grizzly-700-valve-adjustment.3528/
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